Why wave priority matters in surfing
If you've been surfing for a while, you've probably noticed that there's more going on in the lineup than just catching waves.
The constant movement of surfers, paddling in all directions, sitting, and then readjusting their take-off zone is a normal thing to witness in the world's most crowded surf breaks.
It can be stressful to watch, let alone be there.
One of surfing's most ancient issues is that waves are, as they're often referred to, scarce natural resources.
According to the informal rules of wave-riding, with the exception of the always entertaining and fun party waves, there should be only one surfer enjoying each wave.
Therefore, this tense and sometimes violent dance around the lineup corresponds to an unsaid but very much understood system that separates a smooth session from chaos.
It's actually even been studied by sociologists.
In an ideal perfect world, surfers would enjoy a balanced and similar share of waves.
They would queue and wait for their turn as civilized individuals.
Sadly, that's quite never the case.
There will always be greediness, wave hogs, aggressive locals... and stand-up paddleboarders and longboarders.
One of the United Kingdom's greatest (and most underrated) bands, The Divine Comedy, has a song that perfectly portrays this human flaw.
It's called "Queuejumper," and the lyrics go like this:
I jump the queue, I jump the queue
I jump the queue 'cause I'm smarter than you
I'm better than you, I'm better than you
I don't have to play by the usual rules
I take what I want 'cause it's there to be taken
And you're just jealous of the money I'm making
Neil Hannon's witty words are spot-on and truly apply to surfers.
In this particular case, all you have to do is replace the word "money" with the word "waves."
The Wave Share Optimizer
So, in an attempt to organize and add a bit more civilized manners to crowded peaks, surfers came up with an unwritten set of rules that one is supposed to follow every they paddle out.
At the heart of this system lies a wave priority system, which is nothing more than an invisible guideline dictating who has the right to ride the next wave.
At its core, and if you look at it rationally, it makes sense.
Mathematically, it's still the best way to guarantee more waves or optimize anyone's time in the water.
By this time, you might be nodding or shaking your head. Nevertheless, the author asks your permission to explain his point.
Why does wave priority matter so much? Why should surfers try to take a deep breath and respect the other's rights for a few seconds of fun?
There are a few practical sides to it and then a couple of deeper motivations to follow the surf etiquette.
1. Safety
Safety is truly a rational motivation for respecting priorities in waves.
Let's be clear: there have been deaths due to collisions from two surfers riding the same wave.
Surfboards are weapons, from nose to tail. If two surfers drop in on the same wave, it's dangerous.
Without wave priority, the risk of colliding or being struck by someone else's loose board increases dramatically.
Dropping in is not safe, despite all the long list of excuses one can present.
Respecting priorities in large or small surf is not a rule for control - it's for the safety of all involved.
2. Preventing Chaos
Imagine a lineup without any type of informal code of conduct where everyone could do whatever they wanted.
You can easily guess the outcome at places like Snapper Rocks, Lower Trestles, Pipeline, Uluwatu, etc.
One thing we know: there would be blood on the first day, just like busy New York streets with no traffic lights.
Surfers would scramble for the same wave, leading to wipeouts and plenty of angry words shouted across the water.
Not exactly the vibe you're looking for when trying to go for a "couple of fun ones," right?
Wave priority helps prevent this chaos by offering a clear rule: the surfer closest to the peak has the right of way.
It's simple, makes sense, it's 90 percent of the time fair, and ensures that everyone in the water knows when it's their turn and when they need to back off.
Although never perfect, it allows us to know what to expect from others while keeping a surf session flowing and allowing everyone to have fun.
3. Fairness
The culture of respect and community have always been relatively core values of sportspeople and surfers in particular.
In a way, wave priority embodies this spirit.
People who don't wait for their turn will sooner or later taste the bitter karma.
And once again, quoting an iconic British band, Manic Street Preachers, "if you tolerate this, then your children will be next."
Embracing the concept of priority in the surf, surfers are acknowledging that everyone deserves a chance to ride, including themselves.
Surely, it can be tempting to "snake" a wave - we have all sinned. But in the long run, these actions ruin the lineup's ecosystem.
4. Preserving the Stoke
If everyone in a lineup witnesses someone respecting another surfer's right of way, the vibe relaxes and chills.
On the other hand, if people ignore the rules of priority and drop-ins become a common practice, the atmosphere can quickly turn sour.
Wave priority keeps the invisible stoke's flame alive and healthy.
When everyone knows their place and respects each other's turns, there can be more options for everyone, and the level of camaraderie in the water increases.
Yes, reading the ocean and positioning yourself to be in the right spot at the right time is part of what surfing is.
But when everyone's good at it, turn-taking is the best way to manage the available resources without the need to get physical.
Knowing when to hold back and when to go for it is a virtue that can actually play in our favor in the "real" world, out of the water.
5. Passing the Torch
It's in their nature that surfers enjoy maximizing their wave count.
Moreover, their behavior and actions also serve as examples for youth and beginners learning the ropes.
Surfing's rich history, background, and traditions have been passed down through generations, and it's really healthy to keep this flow uninterrupted.
It's like sharing the spirit of Aloha with the ones who are just now exploring the world for the first time.
Priorities teach newcomers respect for both the ocean and other surfers.
Humility and patience are part of the game, the same way we need to respect Nature's will and its times when we're growing as surfers.
If most of the surfing community respects these values, the chances of the next generation keeping the lineup harmonious increase.
Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com